Ashbee’s jewelled peacocks
In 1892, the Arts and Crafts designer Charles Robert Ashbee wrote about one of his favourite motifs, the peacock:
‘I hold the Peacock a most fitting symbol of the Arts and Crafts. It started with a splendid tail, all eyes and pride but that the tail subsequently came off in fireworks. However too the peacock is a symbol of the resurrection’.
Ashbee explored peacocks over a number of years, sometimes brightly coloured in enamels and gems, other times, more restrained but still recognisable. He made around a dozen peacock pendants and brooches from 1900.
Alan Crawford in C.R. Ashbee: Architect, Designer & Romantic Socialist noted that “[Ashbee] was obviously attached to the peacock motif. […] Some were smaller versions of the first and grandest, with proud tails rendered by stiff fins, others were more informal, like the bird pecking at a turquoise matrix; some use color more than others, but all more than the first and grandest, in which Ashbee briefly abandoned his preoccupation with color and came closer to the fashions of the day.”
The peacock became one of the favourite motifs of the Guild of Handicraft. When reviewed by the Ladies’ Field magazine on November 6, 1902, the paper praised Ashbee ‘who is one of the master spirits of the guild, but in all the work, whether in wood or metal or enamel, the individual- the personal – note is prominent. Some of the pieces of jewellery are charming, as for example, the brooch of rough pearls set in pale gold around an opal matrix, the gold and silver peacock set with diamonds and pearls, and the pendant of pearl and gold wrought in a graceful design through which gleams the surface of the pearl ‘blister’ on which it is mounted.’
Peacocks were historically associated with vanity but for Ashbee, they seem to have been much more positive creatures. He saw them as symbols of the Resurrection and perhaps also as bright figures in a drab industrial world.
A peacock for Janet
Ashbee’s first peacock jewel may be the most personal. He designed it for his wife Janet as a wedding present around 1900. Ashbee wrote to her that : ‘Your peacock is finished. He is at the present moment pinned on my coat and is preening his tail and looking at himself with his ruby eye.’ Janet’s peacock was shown from the front, with a silver and gold tailed fanned out and set with blister pearls. Although the colours are muted, the form and splendour of the bird is clear.
It became a favourite jewel, one which she wore when she travelled to the United States with Ashbee’s mother to set up public lectures for him in December 1900. A giddy letter home told him about the dinners and parties she was attending, including ‘Last night’s “grand diner” at Mrs Hobson’s decollete, peacock and all!!! … No women of any importance… The daughter of the Russian Ambassador took me home in her carriage!!!! I’m having a rare time!’
A gallery of peacocks
Although Janet’s peacock was muted and subtle, subsequent peacock jewels often used the bright blues and greens of the bird’s feathers, showing the peacock from the side, as well as with its tail fanned out. The colours were created from enamel, a speciality of the Arts and Crafts jewellers, as well as opals, peridots, turquoises and pearls. The rainbow colours of opals and mother of pearls were a particularly good match for the peacock’s iridescent feathers.
A drawing from May 1905 shows how Ashbee worked out the practical details of a peacock pendant necklace set with pearls and a pair of earrings which echo the details of the chain and pendant.
Silver and gold necklace with a peacock pendant, set with pearls and diamond sparks. Designed by C. R. Ashbee. English; London, 1901. Victoria and Albert Museum.
A silver, gold, opal and peridot peacock brooch by Charles Robert Ashbee, the neck of the bird decorated with polychrome enamel.
Pendant in the form of a peacock with chain, enamelled gold, silver, set with turquoises, designed by C.R. Ashbee and made by the Guild of Handicraft Ltd, London, about 1902. Victoria and Albert Museum
Gilt silver, enamel, opal and abalone peacock pendant, designed by C.R. Ashbee and made by the Guild of Handicraft Ltd, ca. 1907. The Richard H. Driehaus Museum, Chicago
Silver and enamel peacock brooch designed by Charles Robert Ashbee and made by the Guild of Handicrafts., wirework feathers with enamelled blue and green eyes, set on mother of pearl shell back, the bird set with demantoid garnet eye, holding a mother of pearl drop, London 1907.
Peacock pendant with abalone shell and cabochon coral likely made by the Guild of Handicraft with contemporary chain by another Arts & Crafts guild workshop; c. 1900.
Sold by Rago Auctions as part of the Anne C. and David J. Bromer collection, 17 December 2024.
Ashbee’s jewelled peacocks have a charm and appeal which is quite independent of any financial value. Although some use precious metals, the gemstones are generally inexpensive, chosen for their colour and surface. Many Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau designers gravitated to the peacock but perhaps no one explored it with quite the enthusiasm of Ashbee.
